Remembering and rebuilding

From 1975 to 1979, the Khmer Rouge, led by the infamous Pol Pot, ruled Cambodia. You can find out more about the story through taking tours through the Tuol Sleng Genocide museum (S-21 Prison) and the Killing Fields in the city. They are sobering trips, as you understand the terror that took hold of the country during these years. These memorials are far from easy viewing but an important part of Cambodia’s history.

In the city

The heart wrenching sites are essential to understand how impressively the country continues to rebuild from recent history. The yellow art deco building has incredible architecture that houses the Central Market is great for a bargain for anything from souvenirs to electronics. If you enjoy a foreign market then be sure to also explore the Russian Market, named in the 80s in reference to the largest foreign group in Cambodia.

If you’re looking for examples of classic architecture then the Royal Palace, complete with its magnificent Silver Pagoda, needs to be on your checklist. It has similarities to the Grand Palace in Bangkok and is a photo opportunity near the National Museum.

The unique temple of Wat Phnom is also a great place to visit. The beautiful pagoda has fabulous murals and is a peaceful place that the locals see as the heart of the city, and comes with a lovely story. It is the legend of a widow, Daun Penh, who built a shrine on a hill to four Buddha statues that she found in a koki tree. After some time this became a sanctuary for prayer and blessing. In 1437, year of the snake, and King Ponhea Yat named the city after the prominent stupa, which now contains the ashes of that royal family. It is now the centre of celebrations during the New Year.

In early evening, 5-7pm, you should head to the river front for the Foreign Correspondent’s Club’s Happy Hour. Boasting great views across the Sisowath Quay – which is great for a quiet walk – and Tonlé Sap River, you can relax with a drink in the rooftop bar. After sunset, the city’s atmosphere changes, the lights come on and everyone clinks beers in riverfront bars.

What to eat

There are always more restaurants opening across the city, and Phnom Penh is the best culinary spot across Cambodia. Kampot pepper crab is a national dish that originated from a nearby riverside town and is a baked or fried crab with a spicy peppercorn sauce. Other common dishes include sticky rice with mango and local dish ‘amok’ which features fish steamed with coconut in banana leaves.

When to fly

There is always a stopover when flying to Cambodia, usually in Bangkok, and the journey takes around 13-14 hours. Tourist season is after the monsoon season in November and January, before the hot and humid summer.